HOUSE
Serge Lutens
11 entries in The Aroma Book, all from things I have personally tried.
ABOUT THE HOUSE
Serge Lutens presents its fragrances as an extension of the creator’s own aesthetic, with perfume lines built around distinctive stories, imagery and a deliberately individual style.
The house describes more than two decades of olfactory creation, including fragrances such as Féminité du Bois, Ambre Sultan and La Fille de Berlin.
IN THE AROMA BOOK
Serge Lutens is a house I appreciate more than I tend to wear.
I often find the fragrances interesting and distinctive, even when they are not easy fits for me personally.

RECURRING CHARACTER
Common profiles
PERSONAL FAVOURITES
Standouts from this house.
Chergui
Warm honey and amber stood out from the start, like an improved version of the aspect I enjoy in D&G The One. Vanilla or tonka added a softer Fève Délicieuse-like…
Fille en Aiguilles
Sweet amber, gently heated frankincense and caramel made an immediate impression. As it developed, an essential-oil-like facet appeared, while part of the fragrance…
FULL HOUSE INDEX
Everything tried from Serge Lutens.
Ambre Sultan
This immediately reminded me of Arabic-style amber attars, particularly the kind associated with the Arabian house Abdul Samad Al Qurashi and its Ambergris fragrance.
Borneo 1834
The first hit was patchouli and liquorice. It also reminded me of Arabic-style amber attars, particularly the kind associated with the Arabian house Abdul Samad Al…
Chergui
Warm honey and amber stood out from the start, like an improved version of the aspect I enjoy in D&G The One. Vanilla or tonka added a softer Fève Délicieuse-like…
Cuir Mauresque
Labdanum and sweetness led the opening, followed by an animalic facet that made me think of civet or castoreum and perhaps some patchouli. A softer sandalwood quality…
Encens et Lavende
The opening was almost entirely lavender, close to the clean aromatic character of Lavender Maillette. On that wearing, the composition felt too simple for me.
Fille en Aiguilles
Sweet amber, gently heated frankincense and caramel made an immediate impression. As it developed, an essential-oil-like facet appeared, while part of the fragrance…
Five O’Clock au Gingembre
Tea was the clearest impression, accompanied by rosy notes and citrus, possibly bergamot. Compared with Tea for Two, it was brighter and fresher, with fewer dark…
Fumerie Turque
The opening brought Ambre Sultan to mind, with a dense traditional amber-attar character reminiscent of Indian shamama. From there came green notes, citrus, lavender,…
La Fille de Berlin
Sweet rose dominated, with spice, possibly clove, adding contrast. It leaned feminine to me, and I thought it would smell very nice on a woman.
Musk Koublai Khan
Caraway or cumin pushed right up against a body-odour association, but strangely it was not unpleasant. There was sweetness too, with a clear civet impression. It had…
Vétiver Oriental
Vetiver and patchouli sat over an oriental amber base, with musk, woods and spices filling out the structure. The main disappointment was performance: it seemed to fade…