Heliotrope

What it is

Heliotrope as a perfume note is inspired by the flowers of Heliotropium arborescens, a shrub native to western South America.

In modern perfumery, however, the characteristic heliotrope effect is usually reconstructed rather than obtained as a practical natural flower extract.

Heliotropin

The classic material associated with the accord is heliotropin, also called piperonal.

Its odour is strongly associated with:

• almond
• vanilla
• soft cherry
• powder
• floral warmth

That combination became a recognizable perfume language in its own right.

What to notice

A heliotrope accord can suggest:

• marzipan
• vanilla powder
• cherry kernel
• cosmetic powder
• soft floral warmth
• a slightly nostalgic gourmand effect

It often sits close to orris, tonka and vanilla without being identical to any of them.

Botanical flower versus perfume accord

The living flower is the botanical reference; the familiar perfume note is usually a constructed interpretation.

For this library, a Heliotrope material link should therefore mean the fragrance explicitly identifies heliotrope, heliotropin or a heliotrope accord rather than merely smelling almond-powdery.