What it is
Carnation is the fragrant flower of Dianthus caryophyllus. Kew describes the natural flower as having a slightly spicy aroma reminiscent of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg.
That spicy-floral duality is central to the perfumery idea of carnation.
Natural material
Carnation flowers can be solvent-extracted to produce a concrete, which can then be processed into an absolute.
Historically, natural carnation materials were more significant than they are in much contemporary perfumery, where the effect is often reconstructed.
What to notice
Carnation can suggest:
- warm petals
- clove-like spice
- pepper
- cinnamon warmth
- green stems
- faint sweetness
- a dry floral finish
It is usually spicier and less plush than rose.
Carnation and clove
The overlap with clove is not accidental at the sensory level, but a carnation accord is still a floral construction rather than simply clove oil.
For the archive, Carnation and Clove should remain separate material concepts even when a perfume uses one to suggest the other.
REFERENCE SOURCES
Kew · Carnation↗Kew Science · Dianthus caryophyllus↗The application of carnation in perfumery↗